tirsdag 13. august 2019

2019 Karnischer Höhenweg - Österreich/Italia

8 tour day, ↑7000 ↓7400, 100 km
Our route: Helmhanghütte – Sillianer Hütte – Obstanserseehütte – Porzehütte – Hochweißsteinhaus – Wolayerseehütte – Rifugio Lambertenghi – Rifugio Marinelli – Gasthof Valentinalm – Rifugio Fabiani – Malga Pramosio – Timau

My Tour Slide Show: Click here.
The tour plan (Norwegian): Click here.
The GPS track: Click here

Down at the lake Obstanserseehütte (2304) is waiting for us


















Introduction
THE ROUTE
The trail Karnischer Höhenweg (KHW) is a "civilized ridge walk" in Karnische Alpen (German) / Alpi Carniche (Italian) / Carnic Alps, the mountain ridge just north of the famous and popular Dolomites - le Dolomiti. The 100 km long east-west oriented ridge, forms the border between Austria and Italy (click map).
1-8 July 2019 we walked a major part of Karnischer Höhenweg. The fabulous trail, marked by Austrian ÖAV, runs on the mountain crest along the very border between Österreich and Italia. During the first 3-4 days the route follows military trails & roads build 1915-18 during World War I, when the Karnische Hauptkamm was part of the 'Alpine Front' between fighting Austria-Hungary and Italy. The well marked and good Karnischer Höhenweg is often rather exposed. This is not a tour for people with fear of heights. This is not a trail to walk in bad weather. Neither thunderstorm, heavy rain & nor strong wind. The trail would be very difficult to walk before all snow is gone on the mountain ridge. When snow fills up the narrow military trails it is more or less hopeless to find alternative options - without climbing skills & equipment. The highest point on the route is Pfannspitze (2678) (Day 3 in description below). The trail is marked with red-white-red signals and 403 KHW.

ACCOMMODATION
On our tour we stay at nice mountain cabins with staff, and one Gasthof, sleeping in dormitories/multi bed rooms. I had booked places well in advance. Even in early July, famous for being quiet in the Alps, this is recommended. All places served good and plentiful meals.
Typical costs in Euro (2019): Bed in dormitory, 32. Half-pension (dinner+breakfast), 35. Coffee, 3. Beer (0.5), 4. Coke, 3. Bottle of wine, 25.

GETTING THERE
For a most of us is a bit tricky to get to Karnischer Höhenweg. Most walkers we meet started their hike from the northern and Austrian side of the ridge, like from the village Sillian in Hochpustertal. Sillian has OK train connections, both from Austrian and Italian cities, check www.bahn.de.
We arrived from south, from Venezia / Marco Polo Airport. Since we were a big group (8 friends) we had booked a minibus (www.goopti.com), to save time and money. Our hike, therefore, started above the village Sesto/Sexto on the southern and Italian side of the ridge. Sesto/Sexto has bus connection with Innichen/San Candido, the village with train station west for Sillian, see bus schedule. Innichen/San Candido has train connection with Venezia. 

GUIDE BOOK
The guidebook we see every day along the tour is, like my copy,  Evamaria Wecker's Karnischer Höhenweg - von Sillian nach Thörl-Maglern, published by Bergverlag Rother. If you look for an English option, why not try John Hayne's The Karnischer Hohenweg - a 1-2 week trek on the Carnic Peace Trail: Austria and Italy, published by Cicerone.

Tour description - day by day

Day 1 - Monday 1 July 2019

Transport stage: Norway - Venezia - Karnishe Alpen
With a slightly delayed 07:00 flight with Norwegian from Oslo we arrive Venezia Airport Marco Polo at 10:15. From the airport we continue with our booked minibus from GoOpti (www.goopti.com) to Helmhanghütte, a guesthouse/restaurant on the hillside above the Italian village Sesto/Sexto. Venezia-Sexto: 170 km, 2.5-3 hours. Price for 8 persons: ca 250€.
It is possible to drive all the way to Helmhanghütte (or Rifugio Pendio Mont'Elmo), but since I'm a bit too helpful with the navigation we never make it all the way. Sorry Dario! The steep road I guide us along suddenly stops on a small farm. We decide to walk the 10 minutes up to Helmhanghütte, despite the intense rain out there. "May we use your barn for dressing up for walking?" In my best English I ask the farmer fixing his tractor. "Jaja, Naturlich. Kein Problem. Bitte einkommen". Despite being in Italy, here they speak German.
Wet arrival, Helmhanghütte.
We have booked lunch at Helmhanghütte. The big terrace is excellent for lunch, in good weather. Today we're happy to eat indoor. Irmgard Holzer, running the place, knows how to welcome and treat hungry foreigners. I really like it here. With recharged batteries and smile on our faces we wave Irmgard goodbye at 15:20.
It is time to start our hike along Karnischer Höhenweg - KHW...

Helmhanghütte (1610) – Sillianer Hütte (2447)
↑850 5 km, 2.5 hours
The rain has stopped as we leave Helmhanghütte and follow a local trail up to the cluster of old houses named Negerdorf (according to the information board: A code name used during the Great War). Up there, on the ridge high up, we spot Sillianer Hütte. From Negerdorf we follow the good  trail "Heimatsteig" towards Helm (2433), through rather open forest up to 2100 meters. We don't climb Helm, but pick the trail leading straight towards Sillianer Hütte. Arriving just in time for dinner. Luckily we didn't arrive a day earlier: Today , 1 July, happens to be the reopening date for the renovated hut. The hut is very, very nice. So is the crew. And the servings.

Renovated Sillianer Hütte (2447) reopened 1 July 2019 (our arrival day!), very ready for new guests.

Day 2 - Tuesday 2 July 2019
Sillianer Hütte (2447) – Obstanserseehütte (2304)
↑450 ↓550 9 km, 4.5 hours
Today's stage follows the mountain ridge top, so we need fair weather. 
Bad weather options: Wait a day (or try to find a option. I have to to find out more later...).

Our first morning up on the Karnischer ridge could not have been better: Calm, blue sky and fog in the valley. To the south: The enormous view towards the Italian Dolomiti di Sesto. To the north: Myriads of Austrian mountains I still have to learn about. Breakfast is served from 06:30, with a smile. Good and plentiful. Thank you Sillianer Hütte Staff for the nice stay you gave us.
At 07:30 we are ready for the rather short day to Obstanserseehütte, along the Karnischer Ridge System that we will follow eastwards for the coming week, crisscrossing the Italian-Austrian border a number of times (after this hike I may not be able to answer the questions: How many times have you been to Italy or Austria?). The trail - marked 403, red-white-red and KHW - follows the military trails  built up and carved out during World War 1. All over it is remains of trenches, shelters and foundation walls made during this dramatic period. Today we are very grateful to walk on top of the big mountain ridge this easy. Without the road system it would have been impossible. 
Today's hike is so beautiful. The ridge itself is changing all the way. We make an extra short climb to Hornischegg (2550), walk above shining lake surfaces at Hollbrucker Seen and bend our neck a bit where the trail is dug into the mountain. To the south the view is close to overkill: The Dolomiti di Sesto Dolomites with the famous Tre Cime / Drei Zinnnen. After Hochgräntensee - with the old churchyard - the trail becomes narrow and more challenging. This stretch along Schöntalhöhe (2635) and Eisenreich (2665) you'll like to have good weather conditions. And a good head for heights. As we start the descend towards Obstansersee the trail and terrain get more gentle. 
Obstanserseehütte (2304) is a very nice place to be. Next to the hut there's a lake to take a dip in. Inside the hut there are very nice people who bring us beer and lunch. Our big (?) plan about climbing an extra peak after lunch fades away when seeing the wet afternoon forecast. I go for a siesta instead. Around 18:00 the bad weather hits the cabin; strong wind gusts, rain and then hail. Very good to be safe and dry indoor now, with a glass of Aperol Spritz. And it is dinner, served at 18:30.

View towards Hochgräntensee

Day 3 - Wednesday 3 July 2019
Obstanserseehütte (2304) – Filmoorhütte (2350) – Porzehütte (1942) 
↑850 ↓1000 12 km, 6-7 hours
The first part of this stage follows the mountain ridge top most of the way to Filmoorhütte; fair weather is needed.  The bad weather options goes via Roßkopftörl (2493) east of Obstansersee, marked Via Alpina Red or Südenalpenweg, to Filmoorhütte. Filmoor is the perfect place to eat lunch. From Filmoor to Porzehütte, the trail takes a big loop into Austria on the northern side of the main ridge.

The breakfast at Obstanserseehütte is served around 07:00; bread, cheese, ham and omelet. Coffee, tea and milk. Just what we need. Outside the sky is high and blue. Most groups set of from Obstanserseehütte at the same time as us, around 08:00. It is a stunningly nice morning, meant for frequent stops to take in the beautiful scenery. And to manage the rather long climb up to the highest peak along our tour: Pfannspitze (2678). The trail to the top is a bit exposed along the highest part, but very good. The view eastward from Pfannspitze (2678) is alone worth our long travel from Norway: A complex, dramatic and never ending range of peaks and ridges. All the way to Slovenia. Sorry Dolomites! I know you are there just south of us, but here and now the ridge view is what fascinates me.

Karnischer Höhenweg east of Pfannspitze (2678)
The trail east of Pfannspitze gets rather exposed time to time. I'm happy that the weather conditions are so perfect. This would easily have turned into trouble if wet, windy or foggy. Several places I really have to concentrate to manage it. The many small Alpine flowers - in full bloom now - are good to rest my eyes on when it is a bit too many steep cliffs below me. Getting closer to the peak Kleine Kiligat the trail runs om the southern/Italian side of the ridge to the pass Kinigratscharte (2515), the along the tailus/gravel slope below/south of Groß Kiligrat to the small plateau Filmoorsattel (2453). From here it is a short way - on an old Wold War 1 Road - down to the hut, die Filmoorhütte, or Filmoor-Standschützenhütte. 5 out of 8 head for the cabin, while 3 of us first take the short detour up to the top of Groß Kiligrat (2689).

Feel more at Filmoorhütte (2453), a very good place on earth. 
Filmoorhütte (2350) is one of those cabins where I just want to stop, to stay, to be. Hüttenwirtin - hut warden - Johanna Köberl runs the place, with two kids and man. 'Free pick' of cold beer floating in the log water basin outside. The hot sausage soup. On top of this good hiking friends that we now have learned to know a bit. Like Klaus, with his anti hero comments and old hiking friends. Klaus, pointing out the mountains and valleys he knows and have walked/climbed in this part of the world, lighting another cigarette. Unfortunately we will move on, Klaus and his group will stay for the night. My best greetings when waving goodbye is: "I want to be Klaus to you".
When leaving Filmoorhütte it is raining. The trail towards Porzehütte heads downward below the cabin, towards the lake Oberen Stuckensee (2032). The light rain & fog - and the fact that I have to climb back to Filmoor because I've forgot my mobile there - make it a bit difficult to take in the big view. I'm sure a dip in the lake would be the thing to do when the sun is out. From Oberen Stuckensee the trail climbs towards the pass Heretriegel (2170). The rain keeps on, all of us have now strapped our umbrellas on to the backpack as we cross gentle (and cloud covered) Roßkar.

Proper rain gear, walking over Roßkar. Never leave home without your umbrella!
We can look over and down to Porzehütte now. However, the trail makes some extra ups and downs around the mountain knob where the power line 'mast' sits. Zigzag and slippery slope, before the last and long flat stretch toward our goal for the day: Porzehütte (1942). Despite umbrellas, good rain gear and boots: Yes, we are a bit wet. The cabin has all what we need: Good drying facilities. Good rooms. Good beer. An then a dinner served around 18:30. Good stuff, with pancakes & cream for dessert. Despite the good food, despite the nice cabin: Something is missing about how the staff runs the hut tonight. Hopefully tomorrow will be a better day...

Day 4 - Thursday 4 July 2019
Porzehütte (1942) – Hochweißsteinhaus (1867) 
↑1170 ↓1240 16 km, 8 hours
This is another fair weather stage, on top of the ridge: In poor weather walk the trails on the Italian side of the ridge from Tilliacher Joch and via Hochalpljoch (2278) SW of Hochweißsteinhaus. 

The morning birds at Porzehütte (1942) 

Sunny morning, and a plentiful breakfast is ready for us at 06:30. Yes, it's a bit early for me, but we have long day waiting. The breakfast is just perfect. Müslie, yogurt, juice, fruit, bread, ham, cheese, good coffee. And we get thumbs up for making a sandwich lunch pack.
We leave Porzehütte 07:30, once again along an old, impressing World War 1 Road zigzagging up to the pass Tilliacher Joch (2094). Good views from here: To the north we look down at the Austrian village Obertilliach, with the mountain ridge Hohe Tauern as an impressive backdrop. To the south we look into a fascinating Italian combo of mountain, valley and summer farms. Wish I knew the names. The climb continuous on and on, to the top of Bärenbadeck (2430). 500 meters up within an hour and a half, that's a tough way to start a day. In Evamaria Weckers's guidebook Karnischer Höhenweg, published by Bergverlag Rother - this stage is named Die Königsetappe - the King's Stage. A good name on this lofty and exposed route, with the very, very good views.
From Bärenbadeck our trail  follow the very ridge most of the way to Winklerjoch (2248), at many placed rather exposed and narrow. Once more we are thankful for - and impressed by - the old World War 1 roads which make it possible to 'wander' along this wild mountain ridge. And very happy that ÖAV - the Austrian Alp Club - maintains and keeps this route so well. After a rather long ridge walk the trail runs on the Italian/southern side of Gamskofel (2415), in more gentle terrain to the pass Hochspitzenke (2314). From here the trail further on looks rather serious. Maybe not exposed, but very steep around the southern slope of the peak Hochspitz (2581). And tough it is. Not dangerous, but steep, with ropes and cables to grab on to. Silly me try to act hero, carrying two backpacks up the steepest part. Close to the top something 'snaps' in my right knee. For the rest of the tour it is never the the same...The trail further on towards Steinkarspitze looks OK on the map. Walk-able it is for sure, no panic. Still it hides steep parts with ropes to cling on to.

Climbing the ridge towards Steinkarspitz (2524). Westwards view : The 403 KHW trail, Mitterkar and Hochspitz (2580).
From Steinkarspitze we go for the trail marked Hochweißsteinhaus (leichte Variante), an absolutely good choise. Then, from Laggauer Sattel (2404) we walk along a very good old road toward Laggauer Törl (2232) and the tiny lake. Far away, on the other side of the valley, direction SE, we now see Hochweißsteinhaus.
The trail is good, but we feel very well all the meters we have to descend down, down, down to elevation 1700 meters - through scrub, bush, forest and vegetation. Then, at the end of our long day it is the Hüttensteilhang - walking the 150 meters up to wonderful, fantastic Hochweißsteinhaus (1867). What a place! What a crew! This is for sure a place to spend an extra week! Of course we need glasses of cold beer now. Then a shower (or why not a dip in the creek). 
The dinner is served at 18:30 - with smile and style. And wherever I look I see well known Karnischer Höhenweg Hiking Faces. Hochweißsteinhaus hurra, hurra, hurra!

Hochweißsteinhaus (1867). What a place. What a crew.

Day 5 - Friday 5 July 2019
Hochweißsteinhaus (1867) – Wolayerseehütte (1959) 
↑1000 ↓900 16 km, 6 hours
This is the first day not walking on the top of the ridge. A long and varied day that may be done even if the weather conditions are not the best.

Hochweißsteinhaus Crew, I love your style!
The good breakfast at Hochweißsteinhaus is ready at 07:00. Today's walk is rather long, with no real options for having lunch. Better dig into the morning meal, and make sandwiches to bring along.
Hochweißsteinhaus is another places I just want to stay longer. However, this July day one of these mornings perfect for moving on. The sky is high and very blue. At 08:15 it is "bye, bye Hochweißsteinhaus Crew!" I love your style.
The walk starts with the beautiful 150 m climb up to the pass Öfner Joch: Close to the pass we are "wading" in Alpenrose. After a short flat stretch it is then downhill for a while, heading SE into the Val Fleons. We pass the summer farm buildings at Casera Fleons di sopra (1864). This is obviously avalanche prone terrain: The buildings have no real walls, just roofs, simply letting the avalanches run undisturbed over the buildings.
A bit lower we meet the larch forest, many places badly destroyed by heavy wind (we learn later about the October 2018 hurricane), before coming to the rather messy summer farm Casera Fleons di sotto (1571). Here we miss the trail for a stretch (next time we'll look more carefully for the trail markers). No worries. Soon we are back on the good trail heading for Casera Sissanis di sotto and then the pass Sella Sissanis (1987). We're not alone today in the beautiful Sissanis valley: 3-4 shepherds with clever dogs are busy with a big, big heard of sheep.
We have our sandwich lunch near the tiny Lago Pera (1960) east and below Sella Sissanis. Unfortunately the lake is not good for a dip; the sheep have been here as well. In addition cold weather a week back was deadly for the frogs. Now they lay dead, pale and swollen on the bottom.
I really like the terrain we walk through now. First a green walk along small swamps and shallow ponds with cotton grass just east of Lago Pera. Then traversing the grey gravel-covered slope south of the mountain Kreuzen, with the Lago Bordaglia and green meadows far below. In addition the special vegetation: Dense and low pine bush clinging to low ridge tops. And high above it all: Huge and grey Wolayerkopf (2472).

High above Lago Bordaglia
From Giramondopass (1971) we zigzag rather steep 200 vertical meters down into the Wolayer Tal, then turn southwards through forest and over talus. The trail is a bit 'bumpy', but well marked all the way to the meadows and dirt road below the summer farm Oberen Wolayeralm. Our guide book mention that milk is for sale at the here. We make other findings as well: Beer and Radler and juice. And very smiley and welcoming owners. From Oberen Wolayeralm the trail follows the Wolayerseehütte dirt road for shorter parts, but most of the way we walk on trail. After a long and warm day I really feel the last 150 vertical meter climb up to Wolayerseehütte (1959).
The lake that gives the name to the hut, Wolayersee, is clear and tempting, so we skip the hut shower and go for a dip in the lake. Yes, it is still rather 'spring time cold'. Back at the cabin, offering fancy and new 'cafe fascilities' overlooking the lake, it is time for a big, cold beer. And at 18:30 dinner.
Since this will be the last evening with our big and nice Karnischer Family I have a suggestion after dinner: "Let's have a night cup in Italia, just 500 meters away! At the cabin behind the hill south of the lake, Rifugio Lambertenghi Romanin (1955)". A perfect idea it is for sure. The crew at Romanin is so happy to see our big group showing up. Per favore. Grappa! Limoncello! Cioccolata calda! We soak in the warm and friendly Italian atmosphere. Next time I will book at Romanin! Wolayerseehütte, you have a lot to learn. Tonight, however, we have to walk back to our beds in Austria.

Heading for a dip at Wolayerseehütte (1959)

Day 6 - Saturday 6 July 2019
Wolayerseehütte (1959) – Rifugio Lambertenghi Romanin (1955) – Rifugio Marinelli (2120) – Gasthof Valentinalm (1220)↑550 ↓1250 13 km, 7 hours - via Sentiero Spinotti
This stage is very different from the five previous days: The steep climb along Sentiero Spinotti. The big Italian lunch at Rifugio Marinelli. This as a hike done in good conditions only.

We are more than ready for breakfast at 07:00. Out there a new and sunny day is waiting. Our group will split up today: 4 of us will walk the trail named Sentiero Spinotti to Rifigio Marinelli and then  Plöckenpaß to Gasthof Valentinalm. The other 4 will walk the direct route via the pass Valentintörl (3128) to Gasthof Valentinalm (1220), ↑200 ↓900 9 km, 3 hours.
It is time to say goodbye to most of our new touring friend, such is life. Luckily our "Group Spinotti " of four has added to six: Brigitte & Sabine - 'the locals' - are joining in as well J. The very first must on our hike today is a stop at Rifugio Lambertenghi Romanin (1955), to say hello and thanks for the wonderful yesterday evening. And buy a Ritter Chocolate (the "Kvadratisch, Praktisch, Gut" one).
Superfriendly Rifugio Lambertenghi Romanin (1955)
From Romanin we walk down and south along the main trail for a short while. Ahead of us is the naked cliff where the 'infamous' trail Sentiero Spinotti is supposed to run. From here it looks impossible to me. "No stress", says my friend, "the mountain will lay down as we get close to it". And yes: The scrambling up the steep trail prove to be absolutely doable. A steady ladder at the low part of the cliff sets the standard, this feels safe. Higher up the steepest parts have steps, rails or cables. What might have caused a problem is the steep snowfield about two thirds up. However, today it is soft and easy to cross. To sum up the Sentiero Spinotti: Steep and exposed, but for sure no problem for a non-climber like me. It is a very exiting, beautiful and fun trail to try out.
Above the steep part of Sentiero Spinotti.
From the top of the "Sentiero Spinotti Cliff " it is another 3 km, 250 m up & 250 m down, along good trail, to the fabulous Rifugio Marinelli (2120). The cabin is a popular starting point when heading for the highest Karnische Alpen peak: Monte Coglians/Hohe Warte (2780). I've emailed Marinelli in advance, about having our lunch there. Now the Norwegian flag is flying. We agree it is for us! The clock says 11:00 as we unload our packs on the huge terrace. Despite being a bit early in the day: It is time for a big Italian lunch. The sun is baking. The view is grand. The food is fantastic. The staff very Italian and friendly. We raise our glasses for the perfect Austrian-Norwegian Group Spinotti.
Time runs at a place like this. Somehow it is already 12:30, we realize it is time to move on. Thank you Caterina, Queen of Marinelli! You really know how to treat people like us.
Rifugio Marinelli (2120) - a perfect spot to fulfill  mountain dreams.
From Rifugio Marinelli (2120) we follow the excellent trail 146 towards Plöckenpass, down the grassy hillside. Having walked about 3km and 350m down it seems like the trail stops in front of a cliff side. We have reached La Scaletta - The Ladder - where the trail climbs up stone steps though a tiny cave/tunnel. Really fascinating trail work! Above the tunnel the trail climbs a bit more, before following the hillside all the way town to the buildings and 'busy' road in Plöckenpass.
Up and through the tunnel at La Scaletta - The Ladder.
It is time for a glass at the cafe in Plöckenpass. It is time to say goodbye to our two friends from Österreich. We'll meet again, that is for sure! Of course the nice women easily fix a lift down towards Mauthen in Gailtal. We, the remaining four, walk on towards Valentinalm. Like normal we struggle most when having to find our way in build out areas, like here in Plöckenpass. The trail toward Valentinalm is not well marked, still we manage to find it: Walk to the concrete tunnel opening north of the pass, and climb up on top of it. That's were the trail runs. A bit more north, and down, we meet the gravel road which we follow, heading north first, then  west into the upper part of the valley Valentintal. Here as well the forest is badly destroyed by the October 2018 storm. We pass logging machines parked for the weekend, cleaning up the mess. Worst of all is the area around Gasthof Valentinalm where the forest is simply torn away.
At Gasthof Valentinalm (1220) we - the Group Spinotti - get a warm welcome by the other four. We had hoped for some decent rooms this night, but the Valentinalm crew is simply not in the mood: Our place is in the rather cramped, and very hot, dormitory in the "barn".
The dinner, served at 18:30 on the terrace, is very good. We take the night rather early; and are well in bed when a really severe rain and thunder storm hits Valentinalm.
Gasthof Valentinalm (1220), wind destroyed forest. High above: Mooskofel (about 2300).

Day 7 - Sunday 7 July 2019
Gasthof Valentinalm (1220) – Rifugio Fabiani (1539) 
↑1450 ↓1200 20 km, 8-9 hours
This long stage takes us through a landscape that is rather different from what we've had so far. East of the Plöckenpass road the the peaks are lower, and the terrain more gentle and green. For those continuing along the classic Karnischer Höhenweg the natural stop for the night is Zollnersee Hütte (1750). On our tour we drop Zollnersee Hütte: We add on 2 km extra to the Italian Rifugio Fabiani (1539).

At Gasthof Valentinalm a good breakfast buffet is waiting for us at  07:00. Outside the air is clear and nice after the heavy rain last night. We get thumbs up for making our own lunch sandwiches. At 08:00 we are ready to go. From the guesthouse we follow the dirt road/trail that leads towards Plöckenpass for ca 2 km, then continues on the trail through forest and over meadows down to the road at Gasthof Plöckenhaus. The guesthouse is closed this early Sunday, so no snacks for sale.
Preparing for the only road crossing on the tour at Gasthof Plöckenhaus  near Plöckenpass.
East of the Plöckenpass road we walk though more farmland. A bit east of Grünsee the long, long climb towards Köderkopf (2167) starts. The trail is rather good, but has been damaged at bit here and there by the October '18 storm. Beyond Obere Spielbodenalm (tiny summer farm house at ca 1820 m) the trail follows the contour line, more or less, for 3-4 km in big and beautiful terrain. 
Long climb towards Köderkopf (2167)
Getting closer to Köderkopf the trail has a steep and 'muddy' part. And getting even closer the rain sets in. East of Köderkopf the route drops rather steep towards SSE, on a good trail. We don't see too much the first part, because of the fog. Further down the trail runs toward east, descending though a landscape that gets more and more green and lush. Here and there the track has some narrow and slippery parts (we still walk in the rain below our umbrellas). Around 1500 masl. we get on to the dirt road going towards Zollnersee Hütte. This one we follow a bit beyond/above the summer farm Obere Bischofalm, then continue on good trail towards the pass Zollnertörl (1797). East of our trail we now see Zollnersee Hütte (1750). 
A local at the Italian side of Zollnertörl. 
From Zollnertörl it is a 1 km walk, dropping 250 meters, to super charming and Italian Rifugio Fabiani, where hutkeepers Tiziana and Nino give us a warm welcome. In Italian of course. We are the only guests tonight, and do get the very best treatment. Rifugio Fabiani is the kind of place "worth a detour".

Day 8 - Monday 8 July 2019
Rifugio Fabiani(1539) – Malga Pramosio (1521) – Timau (830)
↑700 ↓1200 10 km, 5 hours
The stage from Rifugio Fabiani to Malga Pramosio that we follow, 448a, runs along steep and grassy hillsides, on a rather narrow trail. Trail 407a may be a less exposed version.

Italian breakfasts are infamous for being plane and boring: White bread, jam, honey and cafe latte. The Italian Fabiani breakfast is just fantastic, including home made bread, cheese and ham. Perfect for a bunch of hungry Norwegians. It's no need to rush today. Fabiani is such a good place to be, and we have a rather short day ahead of us. Still it is only 09:00 as we line up for group photo, then wish  Tiziana and Nino a very good summer season and kiss "arrivederci"!
Rifugio Fabiani (1539): The kind of place "worth a detour".
Nino tells us to walk trail 448a, via Creta Rossa, out from Fabiani. That's the normal way, as I understands it.  On a morning like today I think it is a bit scary. The narrow trail runs along very steep and grassy hillsides. The never ending and steep slopes below my trigger my fantasy in a strange way. The terrain is very beautiful, with big views towards south and east. Since we are no more than 50 km west of the Slovenian border I'm convinced (!) that I spot Triglav (2864), their highest peak.
Steep section ahead along trail 448a from Rifugio Fabiani to Malga Pramosio.
The highest point we have to climb is the pass just north of Crete di Mezzodi (1980). From pass - about 1850 masl. - it is downhill all the way to Timau (830). However, our first important stop is lunch at Malga (= cabin) Pramosio (1521), a rather big cabin and restaurant sitting on a pleasant meadow. A rain shower forces us to eat indoor. Pramosio, again a place to recommend. The lunch is big and very good, and the to girls serving us are very helpful and nice. The first for a while speaking English. For the last days we have survived on our German and Italian.
Wonderful lunch at Malga Pramosio (1521).
My legs and knees are very soar now. Whatever the reason may be (not good enough preparations/training, getting old, too long stages & up & down): I'm not in the mood for walking the steep trail down to Timau. The road seems to be a better option today. For sure longer, but also more flat. 
8 days of hiking comes to an end when arriving Timau.
The little village Timau has beautiful setting in the Val Grande. We have booked at Albergo Ristaurante "da Otto", the only hotel I found on Google Maps. Clean and nice, but long, steep stairs to my room at the very floor. Oh aching legs! Before dinner it is time to check out the village, maybe find a nice place to eat. Today is not the day, it is all very, very quiet. And the closed restaurant we find is not very tempting. Luckily we have our Albergo Ristaurante "da Otto". They have both dinner and wine for us.
A big surprise arrives for dessert: Nino from Rifugio Fabiani. "What brings you here, fratello?" "Guarda, i tuoi occhiali." Nino has come to deliver the reading glasses I forgot at his cabin! What a man, what a service.

Tuesday 9 July 2019
Transport: Timau – Venezia 
– Norway

Albergo "da Otto", Timau
Game over. Time to head home. Such is life. From Timau there is bus service south to Udine (see Moovit.com) which has frequent train connections to Venezia. We, the group of eight, have once more booked a minibus from GoOpti (www.goopti.com). At 09:30, spot on time, it stops in front og Albergo "da Otto". 2.5 hours later we are dropped off at Marco Polo Airport in Venezia. At 14:00 it is takeoff for the Norwegian plane. At 16:40 we land safely in Oslo...

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Thank you my touring friends for yet another fabulous walk in the Alps.
8 good people for 8 good days.
Apart from soar knees and thighs: No injuries or mishaps.
I cross my fingers and hope we are all ready again soon.


Thanks to all the good people we met along Karnischer Höhenweg, hikers and hut keepers.
I hope we'll meet again. High or low. Sun or rain. South or north! 

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