Over alle hauger: 2018 Tour du Beaufortain

GRP (Grand Randonnée Pays) Tour du Beaufortain
↑6580m ↓5500, 106 km, 50 hours, 9 days

My Tour Slide Show: Click
Map of Beaufortain and our route: Click
The GPS track: Click

Walking in France is tempting - again and again. This summer we headed for Beaufortain sitting SW of Mont Blanc and NE of Albertville, to do a hut-to-hut tour 1 - 9 July 2018. Five women. Five men. A big group for sure, but since we all know each other well we just wanted it this way.

Our tour was a close copy of the guidebook GRP (Grand Randonnée PAYS) Tour du Beaufortain, except for starting/ending at the 'wrong' spots, and missing out a small part to make the complete circle. Our tour started from Les Contamines-Montjoie and ended in Praz-sur-Arly, both places SW of Chamonix, with rather easy access from Genève Aeroport (1.5 hours with the pre-booked shuttle from Alpybus, www.alpybus.com). As I understand it, most people start the GRP from Queige.

Beautiful Beaufortain, here at Lac d'Amour (2248). In the back the characteristic landmark La Pierra Menta (2714)

Beautiful Beaufortain - famous for (and very proud) of it's Beaufort cheese - is situated NE of Albertville and SW of Mont Blanc (4810). Along parts of the trail runs through rather gentle & pleasant meadow like terrain, close to summer farms and ski resorts. In the northern area, around fancy and charming Refuge de Presset, the terrain is rougher, wilder and more challenging. And very beautiful. Around Queige (550) the trail runs through forest, as it also does near the lake Lac de St-Guérin (1512).

On the way we stayed at mountain cabins and at one gîte (more like a pension). When hiking in early July it's not many other hikers around in Beaufortain, except along the short part in NE which followed the busy trail of Tour de Mont Blanc. All places were booked in advance. Even in the quiet start of July this is recommended for big groups like ours. All cabins had staff and served good meals. All the way we slept in dormitories/multi bed rooms. Some places rather simple. Some places close to luxury. The only village we went through (day 7) was tiny Queige. Along our main trail the highest elevation was Crête des Gittes (2538), just south of Refuge Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (day 3). The highest point we visited was Tête nord des Fours (2756), north of the same cabin.

Tour description - day by day

Sunday 1 July 2018

With a slightly delayed flight with Norwegian from Oslo 07:25, we arrive Genève Aeroport 10:15. From GVA we continue with our booked Alpybus (www.alpybus.com) shuttle to Les Contamines-Montjoie (1.5 hours). Price for 10 persons: 260 €, where we had booked a table at Le Chalet du Lac. An excellent place for our summer lunch on the terrace. We go for salads and burger under the blue sky.

Les Contamines-Montjoie (1175) – Refuge de la Balme (1706)

↑530 ↓50 7 km, 2.5 hours
Refuge de la Balme: www.montourdumontblanc.com. Payment: Cash only.

On the road to Refuge de la Balme

At 14:30 we're ready to start our rather short hike from Les Contamines-Montjoie to Refuge de la Balme, all the way on a good gravel road. Perfect for running shoes. It's a very nice and pleasant walk, up through the forest first, then in more open terrain. This stretch is part of the most popular and famous of all Alp hikes: The TMB (Tour du Mont Blanc) Trail, and GR5 (Grand Randonnée 5), the famous long distant trail running from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. At 'half way' we stop for some snacks at super-friendly and beautiful Alpinus Lodge, just below Refuge de Nant Borrant (1460).

Refuge de La Balme (1706) is like a summer farm, surrounded by meadows and cattle. Rather basic, but nice and clean. We get a dormitory in the basement, and cold beers served in the 'garden'. A very, very nice place to be. Dinner is served at 19:00, for us and a bunch from South Korea.

Refuge de la Balme (1706)

Monday 2 July 2018
Refuge de la Balme (1706) – Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2443)
↑750 ↓50 6 km, 3 hours

Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme: http://lerefugedubonhomme.free.fr. Payment: Cash only.

At La Balme a typical French breakfast is served at 07:00; white bread, jam, honey and café au lait. We ask for some extra cheese to 'survive', but they have no extra for us this morning.

At 08:00 we wave goodbye to La Balme and the colourful Korean Team. The TMB trail we follow today is well beaten. Here you'll seldom walk alone. The weather is super, the landscape as well. We are well above the tree line now, the alpine valley is very green and fresh. The winter has been extraordinary hard and long this year, and it is still early summer. The result is an extreme amount of mountain flowers, including carpets of azaleas. And firm snow patches here and there covering the trail. Getting higher we get the barren mountain side of Aiguilles de la Pennaz to our right. The TMB trail climbs steadily towards snow covered Col du Bonhomme (2329), where a tiny shelter is built. Could be very useful if weather is cold or wet. However, today we take our short snack stop under the blue sky.

Above Col du Bonhomme (2329)

From Col du Bonhomme the trail climbs up the snow covered hillside, towards SW, to the crest (2479) just north of Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2443). The big cabin is very busy, but friendly. We take a rest outside the big cabin, waiting for the lunch service to start at 12:30: Excellent quiche and salad. And glasses of beer for the 'brave' ones.

After lunch we get our two rooms, then repack a bit before going for our 2-3 hours 'afternoon hike' to Tête nord des Fours (2756) and Tête sud des Fours (2716). From the peaks it is grand views to Mont Blanc (4810), when the clouds stay away... We get some glimpses before the huge mountain takes on the grey hat. Back at the Bonhomme cabin we have time for more relaxing - and ibex /bouquetin /steinbukk spotting - before dinner is served at 19:00. The cabin is very crowded, with hikers from all over the world. I'm impressed of how the staff manage to run this place. So efficient, so friendly. Our new friend today is Hilmar from Iceland, taking a group of his countrymen/women along TMB.

Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2443). Big, busy and friendly.

Tuesday 3 July 2018

Refuge du Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2443) – Gîte de Plan Mya (1860) – Refuge de Presset (2504)
↑1100 ↓1000 18 km, 8 hours

Gîte de Plan Mya, www.refuge-mya.com Payment: Cash only.
Refuge de Presset, https://refugedepresset.ffcam.fr Payment: Cash only.

If dinner was chaotic at Bonhomme I don't know how to describe the breakfast. It is free seating at the long tables, and hectic both among hikers and staff as we start to eat at 06:30. Outside it is foggy and chilly, so we put on some extra layers this morning. Most of the hikers will follow the TMB main trail from Bonhomme, running eastwards (two options) from the cabin. We are heading south, along the far more quiet trail GR5/GRP Tour du Beaufortain, picking the variant along the mountain ridge Crête des Gittes (2538).

Crête des Gittes

At 08:00 we are ready, all 10 of us, more or less wind and 'fog proof'. The trail over Crête des Gittes is really unique - and recommended - following the ridge like a snake. Maybe not the best choice if you don't like it to airy, but the track is more like a narrow road, carved into the mountain. The fog soon dries off around us, soon we are walking on top of the clouds and enjoying the fantastic landscape. As we continue down and westwards to pass Col de la Sauce (2307) we follow the smaller trail on the grassy crest top. Very nice it is.

From Col de la Sauce the marked trail runs down through gentle meadows, partly on gravel road, to the asphalt road D925. Nearly no traffic today on this early July morning. Along the road there are two options for food and lodging: Refuge du Plan de la Lai (FFCAM) and Gîte de Plan Mya (private). We have booked an early lunch at Gîte de Plan Mya (1860), tempted by their web page menu. It proves to be a very good choice! Plan Mya proves to be some much more than a menu card: A very warm welcome the chef Yvon and her crew. The beautifully restored house. And then the food! We start with the specialty of the house: Snails in a green herb mix. Then quiche, home made sausage, salad, potato/apple pate, blueberry pie, coffee... Fantastic! Nothing but good, good, good. A place I really have to visit again. A hard place to leave. PS: Plan Mya accept cash only.

Flower power at Le Grande Berge.

At 12:15 it is back on the track again, leaving Plan Mya behind. We still have a long way to go today, now along GR5. From Plan Mya (1860) the trail runs over the two low passes Le Petit Berge and Le Grande Berge (ca 2050). The green meadows are covered with with carpets of white flowers (sorry, don't know the name). After Le Grande Berge the trail zigzag down a bit, and leads through low forest to a crest. Here we have a good view towards the next hiking stretch, and the characteristic mountain and landmark La Pierra Menta (2714). From the crest we walk downwards now, to approx.1800 m. From here on it is all uphill to the next pass, Col du Bresson (2469). First rather steep (and hot) through low forest, then through rocky fairytale terrain (and a welcoming breeze). All the way on a good trail. From the pass we look over to our goal for the day: Refuge de Presset (2504), sitting on its rock knob. We are in real mountain terrain now. In the valley below we spot 10-15 ibexes grazing. It is still a lot of snow up here, and the small lake next to the cabin nearly covered with ice. We skip the swim plan, and go for the showers - and a cold beer at the terrace.

Col du Bresson (2469). Cabane de Presset (2504) in the back.

Modern Refuge de Presset (2504) immediately gets a place on my top-ten-list. The setting is the very best. The cabin, built in 2013, is a true masterpiece; the light and functional main room, the multi bedrooms, the huge terrace. And to top it all: The guardians Sandra de Bersacques and Sebastian! Thanks a lot for the way you receive us, the way you treat us!!! You make us feel at home from the very first moment. The delicious Presset dinner is served at 19:00. A perfect way to finish a long, beautiful and varied hike.

PS Thanks to advice from Sandra, on the phone, we did not walk via the valley to the north, Combe de la Neuva. It's doable, but is still rather snow covered.

Wednesday 4 July 2018
Refuge de Presset (2514) – Refuge de La Coire (2059) – Refuge de l'Alpage (1983)
↑1000 ↓1050 17 km, 7 hours

Refuge de La Coire: https://lacoire.weebly.com/ Payment: Cash only.
Refuge de l'Alpage: restaurant.alpage@wanadoo.fr. Payment: Card or cash.

Another beautiful day is waiting for us as we sit down for breakfast at 07:00. Like every day we ask for extra ham and cheese. Of course Sandra & Sebastian fix it. We are heading for Refuge de l'Alpage today, via Refuge de La Coire. The standard route option would be to backtrack via Col du Bresson (2469), drop down 400 meters along the trail we came last evening and then head for Col du Coin (2398). However, thanks to advice from my friend Bernard Lefauconnier (and a French group at Presset), we choose to go via Passeur de la Mintaz (2600). This pass, also named Col de Tutu, is situated just north of La Pierra Menta (2714). But, before the warm au revoir hugs at my new favorite cabin we just have to walk around the Lac Presset and take photos.

Refuge de Presset (2504) and La Pierra Manta (2714)

At 08:30 we're on our way. Since the long and strong winter has left the hillside rather wet the trail towards Passeur de la Mintaz is rather slippery and tricky. And for sure enough steep and exposed for a guy like me. The walking sticks are very useful. We soon catch up with the French group, where the 'boss' takes very care about both his friends and our group over the most slippery dirt parts. (One guy prefers to use his crampons. It doesn't look like a very good idea...)

Finding the way to Passeur de la Mintaz/Col de Tutu.

We all make it safely to Col de Tutu. My concern about how steepness and snow conditions are on the west side of the pass is really waste of energy; the slope is gentle and the firm snow makes it perfect to descend. Time to time we look more like happy kids skiing down on our boots, nearly all the way to the lake with the charming name Lac d'Amour (2248). Despite very cold water (I give it 5°C) and a breeze three out of ten just have to go for a quick dip. In the "water of love" :-)

Lac d'Amour (2248)

From Lac d'Amour we head for Col du Coin (2398), where we will be back on the classic GRP Tour du Beaufortain. The terrain is back to green and gentle again, and the walking is straight forward and pleasant. Towards the pass a group of mountain bikers are struggling to get their horses up the hill, happy to get a Norwegian arm or two assisting a bit. The grownup mixed group - more or less at our age - is out on a longer Trans Alp tour. Here and now I vote for boots.

From the pass we walk down and into a new (to us) green valley, partly on trail, but mainly on gravel road (bike please!). We head for Refuge de La Coire (2059), where we have booked table for lunch (payment in cash only). No booking is needed today, only a few others are out walking or biking. The hot lunch plates we order are OK, however we have other cabins we'll rather come back to.

Above Lac de St-Guérin (1512)

Heading westwards from La Coire the GRP follows the gravel road for nearly 1 km, then continues on good trail down towards the lake/reservoir Lac de St-Guérin (1512). The upper part runs over meadows, then through the forest the very last part. At the SE bay of turquoise colored Lac de St-Guérin our trail passes over a fancy suspension bridge, then along a popular "stroll road" along the south shore. After a short snack rest, cooling our feet in the creek ("swimming prohibited"), a 450 meters climb is waiting for us. The day is hot, so it is a real treat to walk in the shady and beautiful forest for the first 300 meters uphill.

Refuge de l'Alpage (1983)

Refuge de l'Alpage (1983) sits on the grassy ski resort hillside, and is accessible by car (dirt road). The huge veranda is close to empty today. Guess it is rather lively here during the ski season. The cabin is newly renovated, from top to toe. And the owner - Patricia - for sure knows how to run the business: Perfect food and lodging. And, according to our plan our friend Bernard arrives in his car from Grenoble/Chartreuse. For the next day our group will consist of 11 happy hikers.

Out there clouds, rain showers and thunder are coming in, hiding Mont Blanc. But suddenly, just before bedtime it is there, the beautiful giant of the Alps.

Thursday 5 July 2018
Refuge de l'Alpage (1983) – Le Grand Mont (2686) – Refuge des Arolles (1890)
↑950 ↓1050 13 km, 6-7 hours
Refuges des Arolles: https://lesarolles.org/ Payment: Card or cash.

After a very good breakfast at Refuge de l'Alpage (07:00) most of us are ready for a local beauty: The mountain Le Grand Mont (2686). It's a bit cloudy outside, and the peak is playing with the fog. We pack a light sack, and give it a try. The trail is mainly well marked, but higher up snow is still covering the path and marks. Up high the terrain gets more and more Nordic. Not steep, but snowy and barren. Yes, we like it here. The clouds still play around the top while we are there, but partly sunny weather and no wind make this top tour to a good choice.

Le Grand Mont (2686)

We're back at Refuge de l'Alpage around 12:00, for 'stress down' and a good lunch. When we're ready to leave Refuge de l'Alpage it is already 14:30. The trail and landscape towards Refuge des Arolles is simply very, very nice. Really beautiful. Wild, always changing, lush. With exception of a few mountain trail runners we are all alone. Again. The highlight to me is the area near Lac Tournant; the wild scenery, the creek draining down into the hillside, the tiny gorge below the pond. It's a true pearl sitting here between all build out ski slopes. Just before arriving Refuge des Arolles (1890) our standard tour equipment, the umbrellas, become handy. Finally.

Near Lac Tournant.

Refuge des Arolles (1890) is friendly, basic and warm. This evening we - "the bunch 11" - get a warm welcome. The combination of 10 Norwegians and one French is obviously not what they're used to. Des Arolles The dinner at 19:00 is tiptop. The 'boss' and her crew are helpful and caring. I really like it here, despite being more or less in the middle of a ski track.

Refuge des Arolles (1890)

Friday 6 July 2018

Refuge des Arolles (1890) – Gîte de Molliessoulaz (950)

↑450 ↓1400 13 km, 3 hours
Gîte de Molliessoulaz: http://www.gite-beaufortain.com/gite/. Payment in cash.

At 07:00 it's a classic French breakfast at Refuge des Arolles. Since we have a rather long walk ahead of us without any huts en route we have ordered lunch packs. Outside the weather is gray and a bit wet. We wave goodbye to the cabin, and say au revoir to Bernard. He will walk back to his car at l'Alpage, then drive and stay with us one more night at Molliessoulaz.

Rain Men

It's rain gear and umbrella conditions today, and most of the day we walk in the clouds. Shortly after leaving Arolles we are out of the forest, and walk in open terrain for the next hours. At the pass Col de la Bâthie (1889) a few people are out waiting for a mountain race. We are a bit too early to be a cheering team, so the herd of grazing cows is the only the entertainment for us this morning. From the pass the trail drops a little bit before it climbs 400 meters up to Col des Lacs (2247). No conditions for swimming in Lacs de Lavouet, they are covered by ice and fog. From Col des Lacs the trail follows the rather steep west flank of Pointe de la Grande Journée (2460), and takes us about 200 meters lower. On the map the trail is drawn as "passage délicat", but I find it easy to walk. No worries.

Starting the descend towards Gîte de Molliessoulaz.

The fog still keeps out what must be great views to the south, all way over the pass east of La Roche Pourie (ca 2020). From now on it's down, down about 1000 m before our day is over. First through pleasant azalea covered terrain, then into the forest. Apart from a bunch of goats we meet nobody. Pick a grey day in the Alps, and the chance for a quiet day is good. We have booked places at Gîte de Molliessoulaz, and as we approach the weather clears up. And after a while the sun is shining.

Gîte de Molliessoulaz (950)

At Gîte de Molliessoulaz (950) the sun is not needed. The reception we get by Sébastien, the owner, is simply fantastic. Our French is not the best ("Je parle français comme une vache espagnole!"), his English comme si comme ça. A perfect setting for warm hugs and good laughs. And cold beers out in the nice garden. We get the two big and nice rooms upstairs, and then hot showers. Bernard turns up in his car, and a bit later Claire; the warm lady of the house. The evening is more then perfect, with plenty of very good food and wine. Before it's all over we have been served champagne at the balcony, watching at the moon - and Mont Blanc. Thank you Claire and Sébastien for the very generous way you are treating us! Gîte de Molliessoulaz: Strongly recommended.

At Gîte de Molliessoulaz they know how to treat their guests.

Saturday 7 July 2018

Mini bus service from Gîte de Molliessoulaz (950) to Queige (540)

Queige (540) – Refuge du Lachat (1555)

↑1300 ↓200 15 km, 7 hours
Refuge du Lachat: www.refugedulachat.com Payment: Credit card or cash

Breakfast - with very good bread - is served at 07:30. To save our sore morning legs it's easy to say yes to Sébastien's offer to drive us down to the village Queige, for a few euros only. I really don't like the idea about leaving this nice house, but we have to stick to our plan today. After hugs and kisses (luckily it takes time since we are 11) we roll down the hill. Sébastien in front, Bernard behind.

In charming Queige with we shop some fruit and snacks in the tiny grossary (entrance via the bar). Queige has bus connection to/from Albertville, and is the starting point for those doing Tour du Beaufortain according to the FFRandonnée guidebook. At 09:30 we say goodbye to Bernard, driving back home to Sappey en Chartreuse, and hit the trail.

Along GRP Tour du Beaufortain towards Refuge du Lachat.

This is the least spectacular day on our tour. The trail stays in the forest most of the time, more or less all the way to Refuge du Lachat. It's no easy to find good, open spots for a picnic. The big views are not too many. Parts of the forest is big, old and nice, and keep out the sun on a warm day like this.

At Refuge du Lachat (1555) the sign "Fermé/Closed" and a locked door meet us . Is something wrong with my booking? The place is dead quiet. A window is soon open above us: "I'll come down in a minute". Guess we hit the local siesta hour. For sure we are a bit ahead for the summer rush, not much action around in early July.

Lachat is clean and OK, with a huge terrace. The warden is not very eager doing his job, but we do get what we need: Cold beers, coke and salty snacks. Today it's just us and two others staying for the night. It mus be different in the winter peak season I guess; the west and north side of the hill above us is peppered with ski lifts.

The dinner at Lachat - at 19:00 - is very good and plentiful. I go to bed early, my old body is a bit slack tonight.

Refuge du Lachat (1555)

Sunday 8 July 2018

Refuge du Lachat (1555) – Refuge de la Croix de Pierre (1965) – Refuge Le Petit Tétras (1783)
↑900 ↓600 17 km, 7 hours
Refuge de la Croix de Pierre: www.refugedelacroixdepierre.fr. Payment: Cash only.
Refuge Le Petit Tétras: Booking on Facebook. Payment: Credit card or cash.

07:00 means breakfast time, before preparing for our last full walking day. From Lachat we walk a bit downhill, before walking 400 meters uphill through pleasant forest towards the hill Chard du Beurre. And huge, grassy, open ski resort fields. At Col de la Lézette (1787) we just have to stop at tempting Le Benetton: They sell Italian ice cream and very good coffee!

From Col de la Lézette (1787) the GRP follow the dirt road now, with a few exceptions, up to Col de Véry. Running shoes would have been the best choice on this stretch. Or a bicycle. This is grazing land for cattle. As well as ski resort country. On our way we pass a bigger constriction site, more apartments for the skiers I guess.

All the way towards Col de Véry we have a fantastic view over the green valley bellow, and snow covered Mont Blanc (4810) high above to the east.

And high above it all: Mont Blanc (4810)

Our lunch stop, Refuge de la Croix de Pierre (1965), is a very charming place. Both the house and the owners. It's busy this sunny Sunday, not too easy get an outdoor table for our big group. However, after a while we both table, tasty salad on the plates and cold stuff in our glasses. Hiking in France is not bad at all.

Refuge de la Croix de Pierre (1965).

At Col de Véry / La Croix de Pierre we leave the GPR Tour du Beaufortain and head northwest towards our last cabin on this tour. This trail is very pleasant, with good views all the way: Most of the time we walk on the crest of the hill, via Mont de Vorès (2067), Ban Rouge (1983) and Crêt du Midi (1890), to arrive at a very good place to be: Tiny and charming Refuge Le Petit Tétras (1783), run in a very nice way by Julie and Mathias, with their family.

On the ridge from Mont de Vorès (2067) to Ban Rouge (1983).

We get the big dormitory on the attic, and the 'private' top terrace behind the house. Some aperitif, a shower, then it is dinnertime: The food is tiptop. And the 'dessert' beautiful: The last glass of wine on the main terrace as the daylight slowly fades out. Le Petit Tétras: The perfect place to spend the last evening up high.

Refuge Le Petit Tétras

Monday 9 July 2018
Refuge Le Petit Tétras (1783) – Praz-sur-Arly (1010)
↓800 5 km, 2 hours

Today we have to be down in the valley before 10:00 to catch the minibus we have booked. As breakfast is ready for us at 07:00 we've backed most of our stuff, and are ready to start walking at 07:45. Au revoir Petit Tétras! This was a very memorable stay to all of us.

Refuge Le Petit Tétras (1783)

The 800 meters descend to village Praz-sur-Arly goes very smooth; the trail is never very steep as it zigzags through the forest. Down in Praz-sur-Arly we have plenty of time to buy some local goodies (Beaufort cheese and sausage) and re-pack a little bit before our prebooked Alpybus arrives in front of Le Mairie/Town Hall at 10:00.

Descending towards Praz-sur-Arly.

Praz-sur-Arly, like our starting point Les Contamines-Montjoie, is just an 1.5 hours drive away from Genève Aeroport. Just ideal for busy tourists like us, flying home to Norway around 14:00.

- o O o -

Beaufortain:

An area which is very easy to recommend! Fantastic hiking terrain, full of superduper mountain cabins. And in early July: Hardly any other hikers.

My good friends:

Such a perfect company, day after day!

Up hills and down hills.

Sunshine or rain.

Let's do it again!

Tusen takk for turen, fra Bjørn.